Offshore Operation - The Force Exerted by Surface Waves on Piles

The force exerted by unbroken surface waves on a cylindrical object, such as a pile, which extends from the bottom upward above the wave crest, is made up of two components, namely: 1. A drag force proportional to the square of the velocity which may be represented by a drag coefficient having substantially the same value as for steady flow, and 2. A virtual mass force proportional to the horizontal component of the accelerative force exerted on the mass of water displaced by the pile. These relationships follow directly from wave theory and have been confirmed by measurements in the Fluid Mechanics Laboratory of the University of California, Berkeley. The maximum force exerted by breakers or incipient breakers is impulsive in nature, reaching a value much greater than that produced by unbroken waves but enduring for only a short time interval. This impulsive force represents the ultimate development of the accelerative force and is produced by the steep wave front and large horizontal acceleration at the front of a breaker. This impulsive force greatly exceed. the drag force computed from the particle velocities of the breaker. The reader is cautioned that these preliminary results are applicable only to single piles without bracing and are likely to be modified somewhat where multiple piles are driven, one within the influence of the other or where multiple piles are connected by submerged bracing. This paper is essentially a preliminary report submitted at this time because of the current importance of wave forces in the design of offshore structures. An extended series of additional experiments is planned for the near future. Theoretical Relationships For the sake of simplicity of treatment, the theory will be developed from the equations for waves of small amplitude. The horizontal displacement of a water particle is described by the equation 2p cosh — (d + z) H L 2pt X =----------------------sin ----- . , (1) 2 2pD T sinh------ L The horizontal component of the orbital velocity is obtained by differentiation with respect to time as 2p cosh — (d + z) pH L 2pt u = ------------------- cos— .... (2) sinh- L The acceleration of the water particles at any position is obtained by again differentiating with respect to time as 2p cosh — (d + z) 9 u -2vH L 2pt -----=----------------------------sin ----- . . (3) 3 t T2 2pd T sinh------ L where H = wave height — ft L = wave length — ft d = still water depth — ft z = depth below the still water measured negatively downward — ft. T = wave period — sec t = time — sec The force exerted on a differential section, dz, in length is pD2 s u pD 1 dF= [CM (p/4) st + Cn/2 u2] dz • • (4) where D = pile diameter — ft p = water mass density — slugs/ft3 C, = coefficient of mass C,, = coefficient of drag Substituting for a s u/s t arid u2 from Eqs. (3) and (2), the force per unit length at any position z is dF p2 pD H2 &apos; / = — [- fM sin ? ± fD cos2 ? ] . . . (5) dz 2T2 fM D fD 2pt Cm = pA/H:CD = A2;? = T [+ cos2 ? for 0 < ? < p/2 cosh— (d+z) 3p L — < o < 2p Sin L -cos2 ? for p/2 <? <3p/2 The sin 9 term (inertia) i- negative for 0 < 0 < p and positive for p < ? < 2p. Values of A and A&apos; appear in Fig. 1